Velha Goa · UNESCO World Heritage

Four churches, one afternoon, no coach party.

Most visitors see the Basilica and leave. The complex is seven buildings across two square kilometres, and the ones nobody walks to are the ones still standing as they were built.

The unplastered laterite facade of the Basilica of Bom Jesus in afternoon sun
3.5 km
On foot, in the open, on stone and grass
3 hrs
Start to finish, including stops
12
People at most, November to March
On the trail

In the order the route takes them.

The side of the Basilica of Bom Jesus seen across the lawn
Stop 1

Basilica of Bom Jesus

1605, and the only one built in laterite left deliberately unplastered.

The small whitewashed Chapel of St Catherine in Old Goa
Stop 2

Chapel of St Catherine

The oldest structure on the site and the one almost nobody visits.

The single ruined tower of St Augustine above a field of rubble
Stop 3

St Augustine’s Tower

Forty-six metres of what was a five-storey church, abandoned in 1835.

Worth knowing

The thing most people get wrong.

Old Goa held more people than Lisbon in 1600. The churches are what survived, not what was built — two centuries separate the earliest and latest, and the styles argue with each other.

The capital moved to Panaji because the river silted and the epidemics did not stop. It is a protected monument under the Archaeological Survey of India and a working parish, and both impose rules we would rather you heard now.

The whitewashed Se Cathedral with its single tower
Afternoons

Six fixed slots a week.

Mon

Monday and Tuesday, 15:00

Full trail · twelve at most

The site is at its worst in the middle of the day and its best in the last two hours.

Wed

Wednesday and Friday, 15:30

Full trail · twelve at most

Our slots are cleared with the Basilica office each week rather than assumed.

Sat

Saturday 14:30 · Sunday 16:00

Sunday is the short route only

The two-church version stays on paved ground, at the same price.

On the trail

Seven buildings, two square kilometres.

The painted wooden ceiling inside the Church of St Francis of Assisi
The painted ceiling at St Francis
Walkers crossing open ground between the churches under the afternoon sun
Very little shade between buildings
Old foundations showing through the grass near the ruins
Foundations underfoot
The Mandovi river seen from the ridge by the Church of Our Lady of the Rosary
The view back over the river

Most visitors see the Basilica and leave. The ones nobody walks to are the ones still standing as they were built.

From the trail

Old Goa Church Trail

Bring

Four things, and two rules.

The dress code is applied at the door rather than by us, and the photography rules are the parish’s.

Covered shoulders and knees

Required for entry to all four working churches. There is nowhere on site to buy a cover-up.

Two litres of water

One stall at the Basilica end, nothing at the St Augustine end.

A hat, genuinely

The walk between buildings is completely open and we go in the afternoon.

Shoes, not sandals

Exposed foundations and loose stone around the ruins.

No flash in the Bom Jesus

Photography is permitted without flash. The relic chamber is not photographable at all.

Tell us about mobility

Mention it when booking and we run the shortened two-church route on paved ground, at the same price.

November to March

Walk the buildings nobody walks to.

Twelve people maximum, and the short route is always available if the full trail is too much. The monuments are free; our fee is for the guiding, with no gate charge added.

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